Chan, Music and Food: The Taiwan tour, pt 1
When I became involved with the Heart Chan group many of the members were from Taiwan. The “master” was based there. I had wanted to visit on my way to Japan. That did not happen. Once in Japan I became involved with another Chan /Zen teacher who was also in Taiwan. He made a visit to Japan where we met and he said Taiwan has a lot of vegetarians, and since it was only a couple of hours by plane I should go visit. It stuck on my mind. Later I met a musician at a club here in Japan who was also visiting from Taiwan. At some point I mention to My wife I wanted to visit. She had heard the food was good in Taiwan and was also interested. For me it was more about visiting my Chan bases and eating. I had hoped there was some Kung Fu family there but that was not so. There was also a large Kyudo group there in Taiwan, however for this time around my focus was Chan and Food. My wife made some arrangements and found us a special deal on a flight, along with some points she had on her card, we ended up with a great deal for a short vacation. So off we went.
I contacted my Chan groups and arrangements were made for me to meet with some members. I contacted my musician friend I met here in Japan and arrangement were made to hook up there in Taiwan as well. He was also a vegetarian so suggested several places to eat. Also he found a place were we could go Play some music. Things were looking good.
Day one arriving, we had an easy flight over and made our way to the hotel. We were able to make a early check in and then headed over to a restaurant to meet up with my music friend and his friend. He was treating us to afternoon tea at a very popular vegetarian cafe. So popular that without reservations you could not get in!
The place was very nice and we had a nice afternoon lunch. It was great to be able to pick anything on the menu.
We had a relaxing and pleasant visit with him and his friend who is a piano teacher. After tea LZ and I went back to the hotel to relax for the evening. We had gotten up early for our flight, so a break was good, and I had an early meeting set up with my Chan Teacher.
The next morning I was up and away early. i needed to met my Shifu at 9:00. I had to get to the meet spot via train and it was a ways off. I mostly did ok with the travel. I was about 30 min late even though I left with plenty of time. I checked with one guy about which train to ride and he sent me on an opposite direction going train. As most of the people I encounter during my stay where helpful and nice. I am going to keep the thought that he just man a mistake and was not being a jerk, even though he looked like a train station official.
No harm done, shifu waited for me until I arrived. Then we sent off for my next adventure. We were going to what is called Dharma Drum Mountain. It was on the other side of the mountain from us. So it was going to be a long ride, it took about 1-1.5 Hrs. Yeah long, over side of the mountain. I was told there is another move direct route , but it takes longer. So we went up one side of the mountain and down the other. Lots and lots of curves. Shifu said he does not drive this way during the fall and winter usually due to the fog. We were in luck the weather was good, excellent in fact. The Force was with me.
The monastery was huge. Dharma Drum Mountain complex was fair new. Just completed a few years before the “master” my teacher’s teacher passed away. His name was Sheng Yen. We drove into the parking lot them got a shuttle up to the entrance. Shifu showed me around, he spoke a few words to the staff as we entered. They all bowed and us the go as you wish hand motion. This was noticeable to me, as everyone else was with a group. I found out just how much “clout” my Shifu carried. I was told while we walked around and he explained stuff that he was going to arrange for me to meet a “ranking” monk and hopefully if he was back a certain Abbot. Wow, I am thinking. So I got a tour of the main building, gallery, give some history, shown some notable places, etc.
After our walk about and visit with the Monk, we followed the crowd which was heading to large hall. There was to be a lunch served. That day there was a large ordination ceremony for some new monks and nuns. This was also effected be able to visit certain area which were on use due to the event. So will followed the crowd an after speaking with a group of monks at the door we were invited in for lunch. There were maybe 100-150 people many more, all Chinese except me. The only foreigner. No one openly stared like some would in Japan , with that size of crowd. The lady i sat next too was helpful , she asked about my speaking Chinese, I said very little. So she speak mostly to Shifu about if I wanted, needed something. Shifu explained things to me about the huge spread of vegetarian food. basically, when it was our table’s turn, go up get whatever I wanted put it into the single bowl I would get at the table. A huge spread of food, I could eat everything, I passed on the mushroom stuff though. I did not make a pig of myself even with the rest. I filled up one bowl, like the size of one’s very loosely cupped hands. One could go back for second if wanted, and there were things I did not get, like soup choice and desserts. I showed restraint. Amituofu.
After lunch we walked out and Shifu spotted the Abbot. They spoke a bit, the Abbot spoke a bit with me in English, surprising me. He could meet with me but not until after 3:00. That was a small bummer as I had to leave by 3:00 in order to get back to the hotel. We were changing to another via LZ’s master plan. Oh well, that part was not meant to be, but I was cool with it as I was not expecting it anyway.
Next we made our way down to the book store, I looked around at this and that. There was a Tibetan Monk there looking around also. I had seen him down in the gallery, he had asked Shifu a question about some pictures there. He spoke in English. This monk asks me where are you from? I say Osaka, it was a bit surprised. I asked where are you from, your English is good. Tibet he says, but I have lived and still live in the states. After a few back and forth it turn our he has a temple (one of several ) in California. The main one where he is located is in Alameda, the city we moved from upon leaving Ca. I knew just where his temple is when he told me. Big shock, we spoke just a little more then parted.
Shifu and I then made our way back to the car. There was a big crowd at the bus loading and a small vehicle for transport. We opted to walk down the hill. The weather was good, it was down hill, and not far, way not. Off we went. I got to ask a couple of Buddhist type questions and enjoy the greenery and creek we passed.
Shifu said he was now going to take me to the location of the Dharma Drum’s first temple, then takes me to the train station. Off we went, back over the mountain…
When we arrived at the next place I was quite surprised. I was expecting an old small temple. Wrong, here was another new temple, a monastery. This looked like a modern university or Art Museum. I was told this is the site of the old temple, it indeed was a tiny old building.
This new place was …well new. This was right in the city, I think I heard headquarters, but the other place is more I am guessing the dorm, museum, as well. I guess ?? Anyway you can see from the picture.
I was dropped off at the train station after I was shown around. We did not go inside I just checkout the main outside area. From the it was just a short ride to the train station, on the way now being in real traffic, i notice just how many motor scooters there are. Very few bicycles , a lot, a lot of motor scooters.
That night I agreed to go with LZ to a choice of her’s. A night market. basically a certain street(s) with mobile venders. That roll up and go home. There are also some fixed stores there as well. So a mix of shopping, plus stall cooks and local foods.
We walk the aisles, a lot of people also out and about. It took a while I but I found some vegetarian food. I was not sure about it at first, but I went for it…it was good good good. A Buddhist run stall I find out later as I am checking out my surroundings.
After that LZ wanted dessert. She found what she wanted i. The Taiwan version of shaved ice, or snow cone. She had been wanting that. It took a while with my broken Chinese, English, Japanese to explain to everyone what was wanted. Finally we sat and ate, yum yum yum.
Afterward it was back to the hotel to chill. The next day I was supposed to meet up with another Chan-mate, from my first group. However, I been slowly growing sicker during the evening. By the time I was at the hotel and could not turn the a/c down I was sick and a mess by the time I went to bed. I ended up canceling the meeting for the next day. I figured rest was a better plan…
To be con’t.